#397 2026-06-20
Kilian Paris
Blood Orange, Piment Berries, and a Sandalwood Night
This episode explores Kilian Paris Playing with the Devil, a 2013 eau de parfum by Calice Becker. Tart blood orange, black currant, lychee, and white peach open the scent, while piment berries and pepper add heat. Sandalwood, sweet resin, patchouli, and cedar create the evening drydown. We discuss the gap between its devilish name and bright fruit, the current Cellars bottle, comparisons with Bitter Peach and other Kilian Paris fragrances, and how to wear it lightly in cool evenings.
#396 2026-06-19
Penhaligon's
Bitter Juniper and a Roaring Twenties Gin Cocktail
This episode explores Penhaligon's Juniper Sling, a 2011 eau de toilette by Olivier Cresp. The fragrance opens with the bitter chill of juniper berry and angelica, moves through cardamom, black pepper, leather, and orris, and settles into brown sugar, black cherry, vetiver, and ambrox. We discuss how it translates gin, London's Roaring Twenties, and the Bright Young Things into a fragrance that feels clean enough for spring and summer daytime, yet playful enough for an evening bar.
#395 2026-06-18
Penhaligon's
Dry British Citrus, Lavender, Pine, and Black Pepper
This episode explores Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet Eau de Toilette, a 1902 British classic created for the Duke of Marlborough and named after Blenheim Palace. We look at its dry citrus opening, lavender, black pepper, pine, and musk, why the word bouquet does not mean a sweet floral scent here, how it compares with Colonia, Eau Sauvage, and Quercus, and why it works as a restrained grooming fragrance for white shirts, suits, and warm daytime wear.
#394 2026-06-17
TOM FORD BEAUTY
White Florals, Pistachio, and Solar Skin Warmth
This episode explores Tom Ford Soleil Blanc, the 2016 Private Blend eau de parfum built around pistachio, cardamom, white florals, coco de mer, amber, tonka bean, and benzoin. We look at why it is more than a simple coconut beach scent, how it compares with Bronze Goddess and Replica Beach Walk, and how to choose between the EDP, EDT, Parfum, and body products.
#393 2026-06-16
Hermès
A Sea Memory of Tiare and Skin Warmth
This episode explores Hermès Un Jardin sous la Mer, the eighth fragrance in the Jardin series. It focuses on tiare flower, tamanu nut, mineral notes reminiscent of coral reefs, Christine Nagel's underwater garden concept, and how the scent differs from more obvious aquatic or beach fragrances.
#392 2026-06-15
Miller Harris
A Darker, Skin-Close Citrus Tea
This episode explores Miller Harris Tea Tonique Extrait de Parfum as a deeper, more tactile version of the original Tea Tonique. It focuses on the differences from the eau de parfum, the dark extrait bottle, the tea and smoke structure, perfumer Émilie Bouge, and practical wearing situations.
#391 2026-06-14
Fueguia 1833
A Painter’s Memory in Rose and Smoke
A reading of Fueguia 1833 Cándido López through palo santo, rose, wild tobacco, the painter-soldier behind the name, the edition system, and its place among dark rose and tobacco fragrances.
#390 2026-06-13
SCENT OF YORK.
A Quiet Afterglow of Smoke and Bitterness
A reading of SCENT OF YORK. MOCHA through bitter coffee, dry tobacco, bergamot, vetiver, patchouli, Yoko Yamafuji's botanical philosophy, and its quiet autumn-winter wearing style.
#389 2026-06-12
Diptyque
Yuzu, Thyme, and the Memory of Edo
This episode explores Diptyque Oyédo, a 2000 citrus aromatic named after Edo. It covers yuzu, green tangerine, thyme, raspberry, the Akiko Kamei attribution, the Edo story, and how the fragrance differs from other yuzu and bright citrus perfumes.
#388 2026-06-11
Diptyque
Wearing the Air of the First Boutique
This episode explores Diptyque 34 boulevard Saint-Germain, a 2011 eau de toilette built around the air and memory of the house’s first Paris boutique. It examines cassis, spice, rose, amber, patchouli, Olivier Pescheux, the 34 address, and how the scent differs from nearby rose chypres and woody spices.
#387 2026-06-10
Maison Margiela
Sunlight Through Raindrops and Rose
This episode explores Maison Margiela When the Rain Stops, a woody aquatic Replica fragrance about the moment after rain. It follows bergamot, pink pepper, wet rose, jasmine, pine needle, patchouli, and moss, and explains why the scent feels more like returning sunlight than heavy petrichor.
#386 2026-06-09
TOM FORD BEAUTY
Quiet Ebony in Palo Santo Smoke
A deep dive into Tom Ford Ébène Fumé as a woody amber of palo santo smoke, ebony, resin, and leather, with context on Rodrigo Flores-Roux, its award recognition, comparisons, and best wearing moments.
#385 2026-06-08
Dior
Sea Salt, White Flowers, and Riviera Pine
This episode explores Maison Christian Dior Eden-Roc, François Demachy's 2021 eau de parfum inspired by Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc. It explains the official sea salt, white flowers, and pine structure, reads the extended pyramid through jasmine, coconut, mastic, and labdanum, and compares the scent with marine and resort fragrances such as Wood Sage & Sea Salt, Beach Walk, Soleil Blanc, and Dioriviera.
#384 2026-06-07
L'Artisan Parfumeur
Blackcurrant, Blackberry, and White Musk
This episode reads L'Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc Extrême as Karine Dubreuil-Sereni's 1993 eau de parfum reinterpretation of the house's fruity musk idea. It compares the fragrance with the original Mûre et Musc, explains blackcurrant bud, blackberry, and white musk, and positions it beside berry fragrances such as Blackberry & Bay and L'Ombre dans L'Eau.
#383 2026-06-06
Diptyque
Citrus, Juniper, and the Opening of the Night
This episode focuses on Diptyque Orphéon Eau de Toilette, the 2026 reinterpretation of Orphéon. It explains why the EDT is not a diluted EDP, but a brighter version of the Saint-Germain bar story built around yuzu, green mandarin, juniper, pink pepper, ginger, magnolia, rose, cedar, and musk. It also compares the EDT with the earlier EDP, Replica Jazz Club, Juniper Sling, and Celine Nightclubbing.
#382 2026-06-05
TAMBURINS
Pine, Bergamot, Sea Wind, and Blue Wood
This episode explores Tamburins Blue Hinoki, a 2025 perfume built around pine, bergamot, hinoki, aquatic notes, driftwood, cedar, and olibanum. It reads the fragrance as blue wood carried from forest to sea.
#381 2026-06-04
Caron
White Flowers and Mineral Vanilla
This episode explores Caron Atmah, a 2025 unisex Eau de Parfum and Louise Turner’s first fragrance for the house. It reads the scent through pink pepper, white flowers, vanilla, Ambrofix, Akigalawood, vetiver, ambrette seed, and white musk.
#380 2026-06-03
L'Artisan Parfumeur
Mimosa, Lemon, and Late-Winter Sun
This episode explores L'Artisan Parfumeur Soleil de Provence through its mimosa-centered structure, the Route du Mimosa inspiration, Daphné Bugey's composition, comparisons with other mimosa and solar fragrances, and practical wearing advice for spring daytime use.
#379 2026-06-02
Marie Jeanne
A Quiet Shade of Vetiver and Milky Sandalwood
This episode explores Marie Jeanne Vetiver Santal, a clean intimate woody fragrance built around Haitian vetiver and New Caledonian sandalwood. It covers the bitter citrus opening, the nutty and milky heart, Sidonie Lancesseur's concise formula, the brand's Grasse and Robertet background, comparisons with Sycomore, Tam Dao, and Santal 33, and why the scent works best at close range in calm daytime settings.
#378 2026-06-01
Dries Van Noten
Bergamot, Hinoki, and Sunlit Green
This episode explores Dries Van Noten Crazy Basil, a 2024 green woody Eau de Parfum built around basil absolute, bergamot, mandarin, geranium, lavandin, rosemary, cedarwood, musks, and a hinoki wood accord. It covers perfumer Jean-Christophe Hérault, the two-tone green bottle, comparisons with other basil fragrances, and how to wear it from spring through early autumn.
#377 2026-05-31
Dries Van Noten
Milky peach, osmanthus, and suede in a leather flower
This episode explores Dries Van Noten Fleur du Mal, a 2022 Eau de Parfum by Quentin Bisch built around peach juice, osmanthus, jasmine, suede, and amber.
#376 2026-05-30
Carthusia
Basil, Tea Leaves, and Modern Capri Green
This episode explores Carthusia Intenso di Basilico, a modern Mediterranean green fragrance built from bergamot, mandarin, pink pepper, basil, tea leaves, jasmine, cashmeran, patchouli, and vetiver.
#375 2026-05-29
Perris Monte Carlo
A Green Rose and Golden Night Garden
This episode explores Perris Monte Carlo Rose de Taif Extrait de Parfum: a concentrated, green-spicy Taif rose fragrance with lemon, nutmeg, geranium, Damask rose, and rose musk, plus its EDP comparison, Luca Maffei’s construction, and how to wear it close to the skin.
#374 2026-05-28
Atelier Cologne
Morning Citrus Lit by Juice and Peel
This episode explores Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine as a realistic blood orange fragrance: juicy citrus, bitter peel, green-floral support, woody warmth, Ralf Schwieger’s construction, and how it compares with classic orange colognes.