CUIR 28

First Impressions and Essential Details

CUIR 28 by Le Labo combines powerful leather and wood with musk and vanilla. Introduced in 2013 as Dubai's City Exclusive, this eau de parfum belongs to a collection dedicated to individual cities. It is a fragrance for someone who wants leather to have a clear presence.

Vanilla may suggest ice cream, but here it has a spicier, darker character. Leather gains substance from wood, while musk and vanilla add further texture without turning the composition into a sweet confection.

This is a different proposition from bright flowers or citrus. Think of a day when a substantial leather scent fits your clothes and plans. Its appeal lies in enjoying that strength at close hand, rather than simply adding a cheerful sweetness.

The Perfumer and the Story Behind the Fragrance

The perfumer is Nathalie Lorson. She grew up in Grasse, France, where perfume making was part of her surroundings; her father was a chemist at the fragrance company Roure. In 1980 she entered its perfumery school, pursuing a profession in which women were then uncommon. She is now presented by dsm-firmenich as a Master Perfumer.

Her work includes Lalique's Encre Noire Eau de Toilette and Perles de Lalique Eau de Parfum. Lorson aims to reach the emotions of the person wearing her creations. She examines the quality and quantity of materials carefully, seeking simplicity with a lasting emotional effect. Fewer elements make each choice more exposed: a simple formula is not necessarily an easy one to create.

Le Labo co-founder Eddie Roschi has described CUIR 28 as a polarizing fragrance. Leather, wood, musk, and vanilla may all sound familiar, yet their combination and intensity can produce a very particular personality. His emphasis on what a fragrance makes someone feel goes beyond reading a list of materials.

The brand's image for its Dubai fragrance is a classic motorcycle, with the sweat and gasoline left out. A leather seat offers a useful connection to the forceful leather character. A motorcycle's presence, rather than a literal picture of a city's scenery, becomes a way of describing the scent.

A Closer Look at the Scent

Leather and wood are central. The substantial leather impression gains woody texture, creating a dark, powerful effect. It feels weightier than the bright sweetness of flowers or fruit; this pairing helps explain why the fragrance does not resolve into sweetness alone.

Musky notes add another element beside the leather and wood. A softer, skin-like impression alongside the firmness of leather is one way to imagine their role. The interest lies in the combination, rather than in treating leather's strength as the whole fragrance.

Natural vanilla absolute brings sweetness together with a spicy, tar-like darkness. The reference to something black and viscous is a sensory image, not a statement that literal tar is an ingredient. Think of vanilla with a slightly burnt, dark aspect layered against leather.

The finish is warm, sweet, and ambery. Vanilla remains part of a leather composition rather than becoming a dessert scent. These four notes describe a combination, not a formal sequence of top, heart, and base stages. Paying attention to the lingering vanilla and musk, as well as the first leather impression, reveals the relationship between strength and softness.

Comparisons and Positioning

Le Labo's PATCHOULI 24 is a useful comparison for leather and vanilla. It places a smoky, leathery birch character prominently at the beginning, with vanilla softening those darker notes. That makes it a helpful reference for someone particularly interested in a smoky effect.

CUIR 28 invites attention to the musk accompanying leather and wood, and to the spicy darkness of vanilla itself. The comparison is about which effect attracts you: a pronounced smoky impression, or leather combined with wood and musk. Similarity does not make either fragrance a substitute for the other.

Le Labo's Another 13 provides a musky comparison. It combines a distinctive skin-like musky material with jasmine and moss. Against its transparent musky impression, CUIR 28 has a clearly defined leather-and-vanilla presence. Choosing between them is less about ranking strength than deciding which smell you want at the centre of your fragrance. If that is leather, CUIR 28 offers a distinct character to explore.

Sizes, Prices, and Buying Considerations

CUIR 28 is sold year-round at Le Labo in Dubai. In Japan's online store, the 1.5 ml sample is offered in August and September, while full sizes are sold in September. Japanese prices are JPY 1,760 for 1.5 ml, JPY 22,990 for 15 ml, JPY 52,250 for 50 ml, and JPY 76,560 for 100 ml. These are different sizes of the same eau de parfum.

The 50 ml and 100 ml bottles are eligible for year-round refilling at Le Labo locations with on-site labs around the world. The initial purchasing window and refill availability therefore serve different needs. Portability and plans to refill can both inform the choice of size. Check the official store for current prices and availability before purchasing.

The clear cylindrical bottle, silver-coloured cap, and white label share Le Labo's laboratory-like design. Mazarine Pascalie Design developed the brand's bottle using substantial glass, a matte metal cap, and a label that can be personalized. The shared container communicates handwork; the contents and name distinguish one city's fragrance from another, rather than increasingly elaborate decoration.

Beyond price, the important question is whether you enjoy the force of the leather. The 1.5 ml sample offers a starting point. Someone looking primarily for sweet vanilla will want to consider the presence of leather and spice as well.

Wearing It: Seasons, Settings, and Reactions

Wearer responses include enthusiasm for the leather's strength and difficulty with its animalic character. Some describe wood, musk, and vanilla becoming gentler over time, so the opening alone may not settle the question of personal taste.

Cool autumn and winter evenings are particularly appealing settings to consider. A walk in cold air or a spacious bar gives the substantial leather and dark vanilla a suitable context. In spring, choose a chilly day and a small amount. On hot, humid summer days, that density may feel heavy, making it a less compelling choice.

For clothes, imagine a navy jacket, an ecru knit, and dark trousers. Leather fragrance does not require leather clothing; softer fabrics can work alongside it. A little of its leather presence added to an everyday outfit may be a more useful starting point than making both fragrance and clothes equally forceful.

As some wearers report good persistence, begin with one spray on skin and allow a few hours before adding more. Use particular restraint at close-seated meals or on crowded trains. Trying it on its own first makes it easier to notice whether leather or vanilla feels more prominent, and to find an amount that is comfortable for you.