VANILLE 44
Paris’s City Exclusive layers soft vanilla with incense and a woody texture, suited to quiet moments in autumn and winter.
#485 · 2026-09-16
Basic Information and First Impression
Le Labo VANILLE 44 is the Paris City Exclusive, an Eau de Parfum introduced in 2007. Each City Exclusive is associated with a particular city. Here, vanilla meets wood, incense and ambery warmth. It is an appealing combination for someone who enjoys sweetness but also wants to smell wood and incense alongside it.
The distinctive quality is the way woody notes sit with vanilla's softness. Le Labo evokes the feel of a cashmere sweater: warm and gentle. Think of a fragrance to enjoy nearby, rather than one chosen to fill a room. That gives a useful starting point for understanding its character.
Paris is part of its identity, but a visit is not the only way to encounter it. Full sizes are available in Japan during a limited annual period. Its connection to a city and its fit with everyday life are both worth considering.
Perfumer, Brand Background and Creation Story
Alberto Morillas created the fragrance. Born in Seville, Spain, in 1950, he built his career at the Swiss fragrance company Firmenich. His work includes Calvin Klein CK One, Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò, Kenzo Flower by Kenzo and Marc Jacobs Daisy, with collaborations among these familiar fragrances.
He also began Mizensir with his wife, Claudine. A perfumer whose work is familiar to a broad audience also made this city-specific fragrance for Paris. That range offers a way into his work beyond the name on one bottle.
Fabrice Penot and Edouard Roschi founded Le Labo in New York in 2006. Penot has described choosing the perfumer he believes is right for a project rather than asking several fragrance houses to compete with proposals. The individual creator matters to that approach.
The naming system combines the material that predominates by weight with the number of ingredients. The 44 in VANILLE 44 follows that convention. Weight does not determine how strongly a material will be perceived: a small amount of a powerful ingredient can make its presence felt. There is more to discover by smelling the fragrance than the name alone can convey.
Early reporting describes VANILLE 44 being sold at Colette, the Paris concept store. The city-specific system connects a place with the experience of finding a fragrance. Penot's interest in how people encounter scent gives that connection a meaning beyond availability alone.
Detailed Scent Analysis
The key notes are vanilla, incense, guaiac wood, aldehydes, mandarin orange and bergamot. Sweet and woody materials sit alongside citrus elements in one composition.
Vanilla provides warm sweetness, with an emphasis on how softly it comes together with the other notes. The experience includes wood rather than sweetness alone.
Incense brings an impression of smoke. Guaiac wood supplies a woody element, suggesting a drier texture beside the softer vanilla.
Bergamot and mandarin orange provide citrus elements. Aldehydes are also included; the term describes a group of aroma materials rather than a single fruit or flower.
The ambery description helps convey warm sweetness. It refers to an olfactory character rather than the smell of the gemstone itself.
Comparison and Positioning
Diptyque Eau Duelle Eau de Parfum shares the combination of vanilla, incense and woody elements. Pink pepper and cypriol are also distinctive features. It is worth comparing for someone interested in spice and a woody, smoky character. VANILLE 44's soft combination and Eau Duelle Eau de Parfum's spicy aspect offer more to consider than sweetness alone.
Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille is another comparison when exploring woody vanilla. Its abundant vanilla is joined by jasmine, ylang-ylang, benzoin and cedar, with imagery of rum and spice-filled crates. Beside VANILLE 44's gentle wood and incense, Guerlain offers a direction for someone who wants floral and spirit-like sweetness.
Spice, flowers and rum-like richness, or soft wood and incense: different combinations give different reasons to choose a vanilla. Considering which part of a favourite fragrance matters most can make the next comparison more useful.
Buying Guide, Prices and Recommendation
Full sizes are 15 ml, 50 ml and 100 ml. Japanese tax-inclusive prices are ¥22,990, ¥52,250 and ¥76,560 respectively; the 1.5 ml sample is ¥1,760. These are sizes of the same Eau de Parfum rather than different fragrance versions. Check current prices and availability with the official store before purchasing.
The fragrance is available year-round in Paris. In Japan, full sizes are available in September and samples in August and September. Empty 50 ml and 100 ml bottles can be refilled year-round at Japanese stores with a lab. This provides a way to continue using a bottle after the initial purchase.
The clear cylindrical bottle has a pale paper-coloured label with black lettering and a metallic cylindrical cap. Fields show the fragrance, volume, date and a name, and personalisation is available. Keeping a named bottle in use offers a personal connection alongside the city's story.
At this price, it is worth testing how the scent remains on skin rather than choosing on the name or exclusivity alone. Someone seeking gentle vanilla with wood and incense may find it appealing; someone expecting powerful, sustained projection should try it before deciding.
Wearing Experience, Occasions and Reception
Autumn and winter are the main suggestions: an outing in warm clothes, or an evening spent close to someone. Warm vanilla, wood and incense suit that quieter setting. In spring, consider a chilly day rather than treating the whole season alike. It is a fragrance to remember in cool weather rather than for freshness outdoors in summer heat.
Knitwear and other soft fabrics can complement the mood. This is a way of choosing an outfit and a fragrance together, not a suggestion to spray directly onto clothing. The cashmere association can be enjoyed through both dress and scent.
Wearers appreciate its gentle sweetness and calming wood and incense. Longevity reports differ: some find it remains softly for a long time, while others feel it becomes faint quickly. Some also find the persistence disappointing for the price, making a skin test particularly useful.
The deciding question is whether you want a fragrance to enjoy close by. Start with VANILLE 44 on its own and notice how the vanilla, wood and incense feel on your skin after some time has passed.


