23 Where the Applause Goes
Number 23 from The PERFUME OIL FACTORY opens with bergamot, lime and cedar, moves through musk and grapefruit, and closes with leather. Its accompanying story follows an actor quietly rehearsing in his usual café seat.
#498 · 2026-09-29
Fragrance Overview and First Impression
Number 23, Where the Applause Goes, belongs to The PERFUME OIL FACTORY's the STORIES collection. It is an 8ml perfume oil made within a brand range described as blended and produced by hand without alcohol or water. The brand lists bergamot, lime and cedar at the top, musk and grapefruit in the middle, and leather at the base. Those notes set up a contrast between bright citrus and dry wood at the start and the warmer idea of leather at the close. The precise way that contrast develops on skin is something to discover by wearing it.
The fragrance was previously sold as Original No.23 (Bergamot, Leather). According to the brand, the name changed as part of a brand revision while the scent and contents stayed the same. Bergamot and leather, the two materials named in that earlier title, remain the first and final points in the published structure. The current Japanese title suggests applause, but the accompanying story dwells on the preparation before anyone in an audience notices its actor.
The brand has not supplied an official fragrance-family label for number 23. Citrus and leather are helpful starting points for understanding its materials, while the oil format offers a different way to sample it from a familiar alcohol-based spray.
Perfumer, Brand and Creative Background
The individual perfumer of number 23 has not been publicly named. The brand says its perfume oils are carefully composed by perfumers, but it does not attribute this particular work to a named person. Its published notes and the story attached to the product are the clearest available guides to the fragrance's concept.
The PERFUME OIL FACTORY was established in Japan in 2012 and opened a flagship store in Ginza in 2016. Its stated aim is to colour ordinary, unnamed days with fragrance. The collection contains 31 scents, a number chosen to offer different options for the changing moods and situations of a month. Each number is also part of the way the brand presents its stories. Two numbered products can be placed together to suggest a date, which gives the range a connection to birthdays and anniversaries.
The story for number 23 follows an actor at the same seat in the same café, practising his lines. The room is filled with conversation rather than silence. He writes in what appears to be a script notebook and concentrates on the role he has been given. Few people around him realize he is an actor, and he appears untroubled by the surrounding bustle. The current official product page closes by imagining a stage and eyes he has yet to meet. That scene makes the title's applause feel distant: the central action is the work he is doing before recognition arrives.
Scent Analysis
The official top notes are bergamot, lime and cedar. Bergamot suggests citrus brightness with a bitter peel edge; lime brings a greener, sharper impression. Cedar adds the dry texture of wood, so the opening is not described by citrus alone. A published list establishes these materials and their top-note role, but it cannot tell us exactly which will be strongest on a particular person's skin.
Musk and grapefruit appear in the official middle. Musk can suggest the softness of clean fabric or warm skin, while grapefruit brings juicy brightness and a bitter pith-like edge. Grapefruit's position matters: the maker places a citrus note in the middle as well as at the top. Sampling the oil is the way to judge how clearly that bitterness and softness are felt together.
Leather is the sole listed base note. It may call to mind the dry warmth of a worn leather accessory, an impression quite different from the citrus at the opening. The former product name also singled out leather, indicating that the brand has long treated it as central to number 23. No reliable duration specific to this fragrance, or exact time at which leather becomes perceptible, is available in the supplied sources.
Comparisons and Positioning
Tamburins Berga Sandal is a useful comparison because it also lists bergamot, lime, cedar and leather. Berga Sandal adds the cool spice of cardamom and the watery impression of cucumber, then supports its leather with sandalwood and amyris. Where that spray offers more spice and a fuller woody finish, number 23 places grapefruit and musk in its middle and comes in an oil format. Trying the two side by side can show how the same citrus-to-leather idea changes when the materials between those points differ.
Within The PERFUME OIL FACTORY's own range, 27 Scenario for the One I Await, shares bergamot and cedar with number 23. Its structure heads in another direction, beginning with lavender and mint and moving through flowers and fruit toward resin and Virginia cedarwood. Number 23 instead builds on multiple citrus notes before ending in leather. These two numbered oils make a clear comparison for someone choosing between a cooler, softer direction and a drier citrus-and-leather one.
Buying Guide, Price and Suitability
The official product information lists an 8ml oil at ¥7,260 including tax at the time of the supplied research. Prices and availability can change, so the current product page is the appropriate place to check before buying. The earlier Original No.23 and the present Kassai no Yukue are described by the brand as having the same scent and contents. A shopper finding the former name is therefore looking at an earlier name for the same fragrance, rather than evidence of a different concentration.
A skin trial is useful before choosing this oil. Begin with a small amount and notice the citrus and wood at the start, the softer musk and bitter grapefruit listed in the middle, and the leather in the base. Leather can be a deciding note, and the first moment alone may not show how the composition feels later. The supplied sources do not establish a wear time or projection level specific to number 23, so trying it is more useful than relying on a general claim about perfume oils.
The brand proposes arranging numbered products as dates for gifts. Number 23 can point to a birthday or anniversary on the twenty-third, and a second number can complete a month-and-day pairing. The recipient's taste still matters most: this is a gift for someone interested in the meeting of citrus, dry wood and leather.
Wearing, Settings and Impressions
The brand gives no explicit season recommendation for number 23 in the supplied official sources. Its bright citrus and dry leather could invite a trial as temperatures cool, or during a quiet daytime setting, but that is an interpretation of the note list rather than an official use claim. Leather may feel different in heat and cold, and the oil's presence will vary with skin and application. Trying it in more than one setting gives a firmer basis for a personal choice.
A workday or time spent reading alone may suit someone seeking a fragrance to enjoy at close range. Even so, there is no measurement showing that this specific oil always projects softly. Apply according to the setting and check the actual reach of the scent before wearing it around others. A light jacket or knit in cooler weather is a practical styling thought, but the balance of citrus and leather on skin is the more useful test.
Some comments about the brand's oils describe gentle wear. Those comments concern different numbered products and cannot establish number 23's longevity or diffusion. The actor in the café keeps working without asking the room to notice him; the fragrance's story offers a quiet image to hold alongside its bright opening and dry leather finish.


